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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.